What Is the Average Retirement Savings by Age?

The average retirement savings by age depends on people’s income, expenses, and even where they live (with some states having higher retirement savings rates than others). The older you are, the more likely you are to prioritize retirement savings.

How much have Americans saved for retirement? While nearly half (46%) of households have no retirement savings, those that do have an average of about $334,000 saved, according to the Federal Reserve Board’s 2022 Survey of Consumer Finance, which is the most recent data available.

If you look at the median amount Americans have saved in retirement accounts such as IRAs, 401(k) and 403(b) plans, pensions, and so forth, that number is lower: about $87,000 per household.

Key Points

•   Average retirement savings by age varies widely, with savings increasing as people get older.

•   Though 46% of U.S. households show no retirement savings, those with retirement assets have an average of about $334,000.

•   By age 30, it’s generally recommended to save an amount equal to your annual salary, and by age 40, three to four times annual salary.

•   By age 50, it’s advised to have six times annual salary saved, and by age 60, eight times.

•   Given that many Americans are not saving for retirement, it’s important to consider these broader benchmarks as a way to keep your own savings on track.

Average Retirement Savings By Age

Below is a breakdown of retirement savings by age group, ranging from people in their 20s to people in their 70s, according to the 2022 Survey of Consumer Finance.

Age Group

Mean Retirement Savings

Under age 35 $49,130
35 to 44 $141,520
45 to 54 $313,220
55 to 64 $537,560
65 to 74 $609,230

Source: 2022 Survey of Consumer Finance, Federal Reserve Board, latest data available.

Average Retirement Savings Before Age 35: $49,130

Most Americans in their 20s and early 30s haven’t reached their peak earning years, and many might be paying off student loans, and saving up to buy a house or have kids. Retirement isn’t always top of mind.

But the earlier people can figure out which retirement plan is right for them and commit to actually starting a retirement savings plan, the more they will benefit from compound growth over time.

Average Retirement Savings, Age 35 to 44: $141,520

With their careers and lives generally more established, many people are making more money at this age than they ever have. It can be tempting to spend more on lifestyle choices (e.g., vacations, cars, furniture). Many people also have mortgages, families, and other big-ticket expenses during this time in their lives.

But those who put that money towards retirement may be able to reach their retirement goal with greater confidence. Granted, it can be difficult to juggle competing priorities, but taking advantage of employer-provided retirement accounts, matching funds, and automatic transfers to savings can all help busy people make progress.

Recommended: How to Save for Retirement at 30

Average Retirement Savings, Age 45 to 54: $313,220

At this age, some Americans are on track to reach their retirement goals, while others are far off. There are still ways to catch up, such as cutting unnecessary expenses, moving to a smaller home, or putting any additional pay, income, or bonuses into retirement accounts.

In addition, many retirement accounts offer what’s known as a catch-up provision, which is a way to add more money to certain accounts, once you’re over age 50. Starting in 2025, there is also a new policy that allows people between 60 and 64 to save an extra amount in an employer-sponsored plan.

Average Retirement Savings, Age 55 to 64: $537,560

Although the goal for many is to retire at about age 65, many Americans have to keep working since they don’t have enough savings. In some cases, people plan on working at this stage of life anyway, although it’s not always easy to find work. Ideally, working in later years of life would be a choice and not a necessity.

Retirement contributions tend to increase as people age partly because they are earning more and partly because they are thinking about retirement more — and in some cases because other expenses are lower. For example: Your kids may be done with college, or you may have paid off your mortgage.

Average Retirement Savings, Age 65 to 74: $609,320

Many people in this age group have embarked on retirement, thanks to years of self-directed investing (although many retirees may have consulted a professional as well). This is a time when people need to evaluate the amount they have saved in light of how long they are likely to live — which is the most significant factor impacting retirees, in addition to the cost of living.

It may be possible to enjoy some years of travel, starting a business, helping raise grandchildren — or other adventures. Or it may be a time to adjust living expenses in order to make one’s savings last.

Get a 1% IRA match on rollovers and contributions.

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1Terms and conditions apply. Roll over a minimum of $20K to receive the 1% match offer. Matches on contributions are made up to the annual limits.

Target Retirement Savings by Age

Because the cost and standard of living varies so greatly, there aren’t clear dollar figure amounts that each age group should aim to have saved for retirement. But there are suggested guidelines, and numerous ways to save for retirement as well.

Retirement Savings Benchmarks

•   By age 30: It’s generally recommended that people save an amount equal to their annual salary by the time they reach age 30. That may not be a realistic goal for many people, but it can be a general guideline or goal to aspire to.

One way to achieve this is to save 10-15% of one’s gross income starting in one’s 20s. Some employers will match 401(k) contributions if employees save a certain amount each month, so it’s a good idea to contribute at least that much to take advantage of what is essentially free money.

•   By age 40: It’s recommended that investors have three to four times their annual salary saved by age 40.

•   By age 50: Investors are typically advised to have six times their salary saved by age 50.

•   By age 60: It’s recommended that investors have eight times their salary saved by age 60.

•   By age 67: Investors are typically advised to have ten times their salary saved by age 67, which is considered full retirement age for Social Security for many Americans.

For example, if a 67-year-old makes $75,000 per year, ideally they would aim to have $750,000 saved, more or less, at the point at which they actually retire and start to claim Social Security.

Is Anyone Saving Enough for Retirement?

Despite the above recommendations, most Americans don’t have nearly these amounts in their retirement accounts. As noted, a significant percentage of Americans don’t have any retirement savings at all — and that includes Americans who are near retirement age.

In a recent SoFi survey of adults aged 18 and over, 59% had either no retirement savings or less than $49,000.

So, while some people are saving enough for retirement, many people aren’t. And relying on Social Security benefits isn’t likely to cover all of a retiree’s living expenses.

Social Security and Your Retirement

Social Security was designed to help people pay some of their expenses during retirement, but it was always assumed these benefits would be part of an individual’s larger income plan, which might include a pension and personal savings.

As a result, Social Security benefits are generally modest. As of January 2025, the estimated average Social Security payment for a retired worker was around $1,976 per month. But benefit amounts can be higher or lower, depending on your earning history, how old you are when you file, and other factors.

Perspectives on Social Security Vary Widely

In addition, people have different perspectives about Social Security. According to SoFi’s recent retirement survey, some adults think it will be their main source of income in retirement, while others see it as a supplement to other income sources. And some people aren’t counting on Social Security at all.

Perceptions of Social Security Perceptions in Retirement

•   41% Perceive SS as a supplementary source of income

•   31% Perceive SS as a their primary source of income

•   16% Aren’t relying on SS as a source of income

•   12% Aren’t sure how to perceive SS in their retirement plans

Source: SoFi Retirement Survey, April 2024

The fact that nearly a third of respondents believe Social Security could be their primary source of income reveals a lack of awareness of these benefits and how they work. And it points to a need for greater education around the need for personal savings and careful financial planning.

Strategies to Maximize Retirement Savings

It can be stressful to feel behind on saving for retirement, but it’s never too late to start.

There are several ways to save for retirement — but a good place to start, if you haven’t already, is by creating a budget to track expenses. This allows you to see where your money is going and identify categories of spending that could be reduced. It’s then possible to direct some of those savings to a retirement account, such as a traditional IRA, or a work-sponsored plan such as a 401(k) or 403(b).

Some retirement plans also have catch up options for those who start late — typically, individuals older than 50 can contribute extra funds to their retirement accounts.

No matter how much you put aside for retirement, or whether you contribute to a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA, a 401(k) or an after-tax investment account, a good strategy is to automate savings. With automated savings, the money is deducted from your paycheck or your bank account automatically — making it easy to forget that the money was ever in the account in the first place.

Recommended: Comparing the SIMPLE IRA vs. Traditional IRA

Retirement Account Options

Whether you’re employed full-time, working part-time, or you’re self-employed, there are many types of retirement account options available. Following is a selection of common retirement accounts, but there are others as well.

Bear in mind: Most retirement accounts offer different tax advantages, as well as strict rules about annual contribution limits, withdrawals and early withdrawals, loans, and required minimum distributions (RMDs). Be sure to understand the terms, to ensure a the plan you choose can help you reach your goals before funding a retirement account.

Individual Retirement Accounts, or IRAs

With an IRA, you open and fund a tax-advantaged IRA account yourself or for a custodian (e.g., a minor child). IRAs are for individuals, and are not offered by employers. That said, small businesses may offer a special type of IRA.

IRAs come in two flavors: traditional and Roth IRAs. When considering a Roth IRA vs traditional it’s important to understand the tax implications of each type of account. Traditional IRAs take tax-deferred contributions. This means your contributions are pre-tax, and can reduce your taxable income. You owe ordinary income tax on withdrawals.

Roth IRAs are considered after tax, because you deposit funds that have been taxed already. Qualified withdrawals are tax free.

Employer-Sponsored Plans

A 401(k) plan is a tax-advantaged plan typically offered to the employees of a company. A 403(b) and 457(b) are similar, but offered by governments, schools, churches, or non-profit organizations that are tax exempt.

Traditional accounts allow employees to contribute pre-tax dollars, but withdrawals are taxed as income in retirement. Roth versions of these accounts (you may be able to set up a Roth 401(k) or Roth 403(b) account) allow after-tax contributions, and qualified tax-free withdrawals.

Self-Employed and Small Business Accounts

•   A Saving Incentive Match Plan for Employees, or SIMPLE IRA plan, is also a tax-deferred account, similar to a traditional IRA. But these accounts are designed for small businesses with 100 employees or less (including sole proprietors, and people who are self-employed).

As a result, the contribution limits for SIMPLE IRAs are higher, and the tax treatment of these plans is slightly different.

•   A SEP IRA is a Simplified Employee Pension Plan that small businesses and self-employed individuals can fund. Here, the employer makes the contributions. Employees do not. Like a SIMPLE IRA, the annual contribution limits are generally higher than for standard IRAs.

The Takeaway

The average American household has about $334,000 in retirement accounts, e.g., IRAs, 401(k) and 403(b) plans, pensions, and so forth. The number varies depending on age groups and other factors. Knowing how much others in your age group are saving for retirement can help provide a benchmark for evaluating whether you’re making the progress you envision.

There are a number of different formulas, calculations, and rules of thumb to help individuals figure out how much money they’ll need in retirement. While these figures can be helpful, it’s also important to take personal goals, financial responsibilities, and lifestyle into consideration.

Ready to invest for your retirement? It’s easy to get started when you open a traditional or Roth IRA with SoFi. SoFi doesn’t charge commissions, but other fees apply (full fee disclosure here).

Easily manage your retirement savings with a SoFi IRA.

FAQ

How much money do I need to retire comfortably?

Calculating the amount you need to retire comfortably is highly personal. It depends on how long you’re likely to live, how healthy you are, as well as the lifestyle you envision. It may be worth consulting with a professional to lay out different options, and what the financial implications may be, as this can influence how much you save as well as your investment strategy.

What percentage of my income should I save for retirement?

The general rule of thumb is to save between 10% and 20% of your income for retirement. The exact amount will depend on many factors, including whether you’re saving for yourself or also for a spouse; what your likely longevity will be; whether you might have other financial sources of income (e.g., from a trust or an inheritance); and the retirement lifestyle you hope to have.

When should I start saving for retirement?

Given that you could live as many years in retirement as you did while you were working, the odds are that you might need more savings than you anticipated. In that light, it’s wise to start as soon as you can, and maximize the savings opportunities available to you.

What happens if I start saving for retirement late?

If you get a late start on retirement, it’s even more important to maximize your savings and your investing strategy. As an older saver, it can be hard to recover from market volatility, so you want to be cautious. It may make sense to work with a professional.

How do I catch up on retirement savings?

Catching up on retirement savings can mean boosting the percentage you save, pairing another retirement account, such as an IRA, with your employer plan, making sure you get your employer match, and — for those 50 and up — being sure to take advantage of catch-up provisions that allow you to save more in most retirement accounts. For those between the ages of 60 and 64, a “super catch-up” amount is now allowed in most employer plans.


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1) Automated Investing and advisory services are provided by SoFi Wealth LLC, an SEC-registered investment adviser (“SoFi Wealth“). Brokerage services are provided to SoFi Wealth LLC by SoFi Securities LLC.
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Neither the Investment Advisor Representatives of SoFi Wealth, nor the Registered Representatives of SoFi Securities are compensated for the sale of any product or service sold through any SoFi Invest platform.
For a full listing of the fees associated with Sofi Invest please view our fee schedule.

Tax Information: This article provides general background information only and is not intended to serve as legal or tax advice or as a substitute for legal counsel. You should consult your own attorney and/or tax advisor if you have a question requiring legal or tax advice.
Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.
Disclaimer: The projections or other information regarding the likelihood of various investment outcomes are hypothetical in nature, do not reflect actual investment results, and are not guarantees of future results.

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5 Things to Consider When Choosing a Mortgage Lender

Buying a home is likely one of the biggest moves you’ll make in your personal and financial life, and your home may represent one of your largest assets.

If you take out a mortgage to help you buy it, you will end up making mortgage payments — and if your lender ends up servicing your loan after closing, you will make payments to that lender — possibly for decades. That’s why it’s important to shop around before committing to a mortgage lender and loan program that’s right for you.

Today, borrowers have more choices than ever. With the rise of online and marketplace lenders, there’s increased competition, which fuels improvements in process, service, and cost — and can mean a much better experience for you.

With so much choice, however, finding the right lender can feel overwhelming. To help simplify the process, we’ve listed five key things you may want to consider when shopping for a mortgage lender.

1. Does the lender offer competitive interest rates?

A good first step is to get the lay of the land by looking at various lenders and the rates and fees they advertise. Taking this step may help you understand what the market looks like overall and who may be offering competitive rates.

Remember that the rates and programs you are ultimately eligible for will likely depend not only on the lender you choose but also on your needs and financial situation. However, this initial comparison can give you a baseline to start working from.

You’ll also want to look at the common loan types offered. Interest rates for fixed-rate loans do not change over the life of the loan. Interest rates for adjustable-rate mortgages (ARMs) can change over the life of the loan and are influenced by benchmark interest rates.

Hybrid adjustable-rate mortgages are mortgages that offer an initial fixed rate for a certain period of time. These hybrid ARMs often offer a low introductory rate for 1, 3, 5, 7 or 10 years. Some hybrid ARMs will also offer an interest-only payment option for a specified period of time such as 10 years.

When the initial fixed-rate period is over, the interest rate is normally reviewed on an annual basis for adjustment. Although the benchmark index tied to the ARM rate may have moved much higher, these loans typically have yearly and annual interest rate caps to control rate and payment fluctuations.

When talking to a lender about their mortgage loans, it’s a good idea to not only ask about interest rate, but also about APR, or annual percentage rate. This figure takes into account certain fees like broker fees, points, and other applicable credit charges, giving you an easier way to compare loan offers.

2. Does the lender offer loan products with terms that suit your needs?

Your needs and financial situation can play a large part in which mortgage programs you choose and are eligible for. For example, some lenders require a 20% down payment to qualify for a mortgage.

If you can’t pay 20%, lenders may require that you have private mortgage insurance (PMI), which covers them in case you default on your mortgage payments. Mortgage insurance premiums vary depending upon many factors.

It’s a good idea to ask your chosen lender how much insurance payments will add to your monthly payment. Also keep in mind that, in certain circumstances, PMI does not apply, such as with some jumbo loan programs. In addition, PMI can be eligible for removal from your home loan later if certain criteria are met.

If you can’t afford a 20% down payment, you can look for lenders who offer more flexible down payment requirements. Also, consider what term — the length of time you’ll be paying off your loan — works best for you. See what kinds of terms lenders offer and the interest rates that accompany those terms.

A shorter term will likely come with higher monthly payments, but lower interest rates that result in lower interest charges over time. Not everyone can afford those higher monthly payments, however, in which case a longer term may be preferable. Note that longer terms usually mean that you end up paying more in interest over the life of the loan.

Once you’ve found a loan with rates and terms that work for you, you can typically obtain a rate lock from your lender, generally for the time it takes to close on the transaction, such as 30 or 45 days.

You may have to pay a fee if you want to lock in the rate for a longer extended period of time. However, once you do, it will guarantee that you have access to the mortgage at a specific rate during the lock-in period, even if interest rates rise while your loan is being processed.

First-time homebuyers can
prequalify for a SoFi mortgage loan,
with as little as 3% down.

Questions? Call (888)-541-0398.


3. What type of origination, lender, and other fees might you be responsible for?

We’ve already alluded to the fact that you’ll likely be on the hook for other costs in addition to your down payment. One good idea is to request a Loan Estimate (LE) for any mortgage you’re considering to see a solid estimate of what costs you may be facing.

Keep your eye out for things like:

•   Commissions Mortgage brokers are paid on commission, which is either paid by you, your lender, or a combination of both.
•   Origination fees These fees may cover the cost of processing your loan application.
•   Appraisal fees Appraisal fees cover the cost of having a professional come in and put a value on the home you want to buy. You must have a property valuation of some type in order to borrow money to buy a home and in most cases a full appraisal is required.
•   Credit report fee This covers the cost of the bank obtaining your credit report from the credit reporting bureaus.
•   Discount points Optional fee the borrower can pay to reduce or buy down their interest rate.

Unless you receive a seller or lender credit toward closing costs, the added fees will impact the overall cost of buying the home, so doing your research and reading the fine print up front might pay off.

Depending on the loan terms and fees charged, some will be paid upfront at the beginning of the application process (such as credit report and appraisal), while other fees might be paid at loan closing (such as lender fees and title insurance).

In some cases, under certain loan programs, you can borrow the money to cover these fees, which will increase your overall mortgage payment(s). Therefore, having a clear understanding of what fees you’ll owe is critical to understanding how much you’ll end up paying.

It’s a good idea to request from your lender a quote on all the costs and fees associated with the loan. A Loan Estimate (LE) is a typical form used to disclose loan fees to a borrower. Ask questions about what each fee covers. Have your lender explain any fees you don’t understand, and then find out which ones may be negotiable or can be waived entirely.

4. How much of the process is online vs. on paper or in person?

How much facetime you have to put in to apply for a mortgage can vary by lender. Some online banks will have you complete the process entirely online, while brick-and-mortar banks may require an in-person visit.

In the past, applying for a mortgage required a lot of physical paperwork. But much of this has now been replaced by online interactions. For example, you are now likely able to send your financial information like bank statements and W-2s electronically.

Lenders who complete much, or all, of the mortgage application process online may be able to offer lower rates or fees, since they don’t have the cost of brick-and-mortar bank locations and their employees to maintain.

That said, if you’re someone who likes face-to-face help, you may consider a lender that allows you to apply in person or a lender who utilizes facetime.

5. How quickly can the lender close once you’re in contract?

Once you’ve found the home you want to buy and you’re under a purchase contract with the seller, the amount of time it takes to close on a loan can vary. Depending on the situation, you may have to wait for inspections, appraisals, and all sorts of paperwork to go through before you can close.

However, your lender may offer you ways to speed up the process. For example, you may be able to get preapproved for a loan, which takes care of a lot of potentially time-consuming paperwork upfront before you’ve even started shopping for a home.

Ask your potentiallender how much time their closing process usually takes and what you can do to expedite it. Especially if you’re crunched for time, their answer can have a big impact on which lender you choose. After all, the faster you’re financed, the sooner you’ll be able to move in.

The Takeaway

Your relationship with your mortgage lender is likely to be a long one. Finding out basic information about potential lenders, like how they operate, what kinds of fees they charge, and whether they offer loan products that meet your needs can help you make a smart decision about what lender you want to use.

Looking for an affordable option for a home mortgage loan? SoFi can help: We offer low down payments (as little as 3% - 5%*) with our competitive and flexible home mortgage loans. Plus, applying is extra convenient: It's online, with access to one-on-one help.

SoFi Mortgages: simple, smart, and so affordable.
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Terms, conditions, and state restrictions apply. Not all products are available in all states. See SoFi.com/eligibility-criteria for more information.


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*SoFi requires Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) for conforming home loans with a loan-to-value (LTV) ratio greater than 80%. As little as 3% down payments are for qualifying first-time homebuyers only. 5% minimum applies to other borrowers. Other loan types may require different fees or insurance (e.g., VA funding fee, FHA Mortgage Insurance Premiums, etc.). Loan requirements may vary depending on your down payment amount, and minimum down payment varies by loan type.

Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.


Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners.

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What Assets Should Be Noted on a Mortgage Application?

When lenders ask borrowers to list their assets during the mortgage application process, they’re looking primarily for cash and “cash equivalents” (assets that can be quickly converted to cash). But that doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t include other types of assets on your application.

The assets you choose to include could help determine the type of mortgage you can get and the interest rate you’re offered. So it’s important to be prepared with a well-thought-out list of assets for your lender.

What Is Considered a Financial Asset?

When you apply for a loan, you can expect your lender to ask about your income, the debts you owe, and the assets you own. What’s an asset? In the broadest sense, a financial asset is anything you own that has monetary value and can be turned into cash. But all assets are not created equal when it comes to borrowing money.

First-time homebuyers can
prequalify for a SoFi mortgage loan,
with as little as 3% down.

Questions? Call (888)-541-0398.


Types of Financial Assets

Some assets can take longer to liquidate than others, and the value of some assets may change over time. So it can be helpful to break down your assets into different categories, including:

Cash and Cash Equivalents

This category includes cash you have on hand (in a home safe, for example); the accounts you use to hold your cash (checking, savings, and money market accounts); and assets that can be quickly converted to cash (CDs, money market funds).

Physical Assets

A physical or tangible asset is something you own that can be touched and that would have some value if you had to sell it to qualify for your loan or to make your loan payments. (If you need to use this type of asset to qualify for a mortgage, the lender may ask you to sell it before you close.) Some examples of physical assets include homes, cars, boats, jewelry, or artwork.

Nonphysical Assets

Nonphysical or nontangible assets aren’t as liquid as physical assets, and you can’t actually put your hands on them — but they still have value. This category includes workplace pensions and retirement plans (401(k)s, 403(b)s, etc.), and IRAs. You may be able to withdraw money from your account in certain circumstances, or borrowing from your 401(k) might be an option, but it can take time as well as careful planning to avoid tax and other consequences.

Liquid Assets

This category includes nonphysical assets that you can easily convert to cash if necessary. For example, a stock or bond that isn’t part of your retirement account would be considered a liquid asset.

Fixed Assets

Fixed assets are items you own that could be sold for cash, but it may take a while to find a buyer — and the value may have changed (up or down) since you made the initial purchase. You would list a valuable piece of furniture, an antique, or a real estate property as a fixed asset using the item’s current value — not its original purchase price.

Equity Assets

This category includes any ownership interest you may have in a company, such as a stock, mutual fund, or holdings in a retirement account.

Fixed Income Assets

Investment money lent in exchange for interest, such as a government bond, may be categorized as a fixed-income asset. (Yes, there can be some confusing overlap in how assets may be designated. Don’t let that hang you up: The goal is simply to keep your mind open to anything you own that might be helpful when listed as an asset on your application.)

Financial Assets to List on Your Mortgage Application

You may have heard or read that lenders tend to prioritize a borrower’s liquid net worth (the total amount of cash and cash equivalents you own minus any outstanding debt) over total net worth (everything you own minus everything you owe).

That’s partly because lenders want to be clear on where the money for your down payment and closing costs is coming from. When you apply for a home mortgage loan, a lender will want to determine if you’re a good financial risk, able to comfortably manage monthly mortgage payments — even if you suddenly have a bunch of medical bills to pay or experience a job layoff. So it can help your application if you have a healthy savings account, certificates of deposit (CDs), or other assets you can quickly liquidate in a pinch.

That doesn’t mean, though, that your lender won’t also note other assets you own when gauging your financial stability. Listing physical assets that can be quickly converted to cash may show your lender that you have options if you need more money for your down payment or to keep in cash reserves. And the assets you have in other categories could help bolster your application if you’re a candidate for a certain type of mortgage loan or a better interest rate.

Does Reporting More Assets Help With Mortgage Approval?

As you go through the mortgage preapproval process, you can ask your lender to help you determine which assets will help make your application stronger. You also could meet with your accountant in advance to go over what you have. If in doubt, you may want to list everything of value on your application — especially if you’re concerned about qualifying for the loan amount you want. Just be sure everything is accurate, because the lender will verify the information you provide.

Bear in mind the lender will also be looking at whether you have the credit score needed to buy a house. Your debt-to-income ratio will also be important.

How Mortgage Lenders Verify Assets

Your lender will want to be sure all the information on your application is correct, so you should be prepared to provide asset statements to support everything you’ve listed. Documents you may be asked for include:

Bank Statements

Lenders generally will ask to see two or three of the most recent monthly statements from your checking, savings, and other bank accounts. You can send copies of paper statements (if you still do paper) or you can download copies online. If you have cash deposits on your statements, you should be ready to answer questions about the source (or sources) of that money. Your lender will want to be sure you have enough money on your own to make your down payment and monthly payments.

Keep in mind that when you turn over your bank statements, your lender will look for clues to the stability of your financial health. If you have a history of overdrafts or other problems, your application could be denied, even if your current balances are sufficient to qualify for a mortgage.

Gift Letters

Some lenders and loan programs allow borrowers to accept a large monetary gift from a family member to help with their down payment. But you’ll likely have to ask your benefactor to sign a document stating you won’t have to repay the money, and the lender also may ask to see a copy of that person’s bank statements to verify he or she was the source of the money.

Retirement and Investment Account Statements

If you need more money to make your down payment or help cover closing costs, and you plan to withdraw or borrow money from a retirement or brokerage account, you should be ready to provide two to three months’ worth of statements from those accounts.

Appraisal and Insurance Paperwork

If you’re listing a physical or fixed asset, you may have to produce an appraisal report or insurance document that states the item’s current value and that it belongs to you.

The Takeaway

Making a list of your assets, and gathering up documents to verify ownership and value, may seem like a tedious exercise. But being prepared to provide a complete accounting of your assets — along with the other documentation you’ll need — could help you find and get the mortgage you want.

Looking for an affordable option for a home mortgage loan? SoFi can help: We offer low down payments (as little as 3% - 5%*) with our competitive and flexible home mortgage loans. Plus, applying is extra convenient: It's online, with access to one-on-one help.

SoFi Mortgages: simple, smart, and so affordable.


Photo credit: iStock/FG Trade

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Auto Insurance Terms, Explained

Auto Insurance Terms, Explained

Shopping for auto insurance or dealing with an insurance claim? It’s common to hit a few potholes on the way to understanding car insurance.

Auto insurance terminology can be difficult to navigate, so this glossary may help you find your way.

Key Points

•   Accident forgiveness ensures no premium hikes after the first at-fault accident.

•   Actual cash value factors in depreciation when assessing vehicle worth.

•   Liability insurance covers damages to other parties in accidents.

•   Collision coverage is for repairs resulting from vehicle crashes.

•   Comprehensive coverage addresses damage from non-collision incidents.

Car Insurance Terminology

Here are basic auto insurance terms explained:

Accident Forgiveness

Accident forgiveness is a benefit that can be added to a car insurance policy to prevent a driver’s premium from increasing after their first at-fault accident.

Each insurer’s definition of accident forgiveness may vary, and it isn’t available in every state. Some insurers include it at no charge, or it may be an add-on, which means it could be earned or purchased.

Actual Cash Value

Actual cash value is the term used to describe what a vehicle was worth before it was damaged or stolen, taking depreciation into consideration. The amount is calculated by the insurer.

Adjuster

An adjuster is an employee who evaluates claims for an insurance company. The adjuster investigates the claim and is expected to make a fair and informed decision regarding how much the insurance company should pay.

Agent or Broker

Both agents and brokers help consumers obtain auto insurance, but there are differences in their roles. An agent represents an insurance company (or companies) and sells insurance to and performs services for policyholders.

A broker represents the consumer and may evaluate several companies to find a policy that best suits that individual, family, or organization’s needs.

Both agents and brokers are licensed and regulated by state laws, and both may be paid commissions from insurance companies.

At Fault

Drivers are considered “at fault” in an accident when it’s determined something they did or didn’t do caused the collision to occur. A driver may still be considered at fault even if no ticket was issued or if the insurance company divides the blame between the parties involved in the accident.

In some states, drivers can’t receive an insurance payout if they are found to be more than 50% at fault.

Casualty Insurance

Casualty insurance protects a driver who is legally responsible for another person’s injuries or property damage in a car accident.

Claim

When an insured person asks their insurance company to cover a loss, it’s called a claim.

Claimant

A claimant is a person who submits an insurance claim.

Collision Coverage

Collision coverage helps pay for damage to an insured driver’s car if the driver causes a crash with another car, hits an object (a mailbox or fence, for example), or causes a rollover.

It also may help if another driver is responsible for the accident but doesn’t have any insurance or enough insurance to cover the costs.

Collision coverage is usually required with an auto loan. Learn more about smarter ways to get a car loan.

Comprehensive Coverage

Comprehensive coverage pays for damage that’s caused by hitting an animal on the road, as well as specified noncollision events, such as car theft, a fire, or a falling object. It is usually required with an auto loan.

Recommended: How Much Auto Insurance Do I Really Need?

Damage Appraisal

When a car is in an accident, an insurance company’s claims adjuster may appraise the damage, and/or the car owner may get repair estimates from one or two body shops that can do the repairs.

Policyholders can appeal an appraisal if it seems low and they have some backup to prove it.

Declarations Page

This page in an insurance policy includes its most significant details, including who is insured, information about the vehicle that’s covered, types of coverage, and coverage limits.

Deductible

This is the predetermined amount the policyholder will pay for repairs before insurance coverage kicks in. Generally, the higher the deductible, the lower the monthly premium.

Depreciation

Depreciation is the value lost from a vehicle’s original price due to age, mileage, overall condition, and other factors. Depreciation is used to determine the actual cash value of a car when the insurer decides it’s a total loss.

Effective Date

This is the exact date that an auto insurance policy starts to cover a vehicle.

Endorsement

An endorsement, or rider, is a written agreement that adds or modifies the coverage provided by an insurance policy.

Exclusion

Exclusions are things that aren’t covered by an auto insurance policy. (Some common exclusions are wear and tear, mechanical breakdowns, and having an accident while racing.)

Full Coverage

Full coverage usually refers to a car insurance policy that includes liability, collision, and comprehensive coverage.

GAP Coverage

Guaranteed asset protection insurance is optional coverage that helps pay off an auto loan if a car is destroyed or stolen and the insured person owes more than the car’s depreciated value. It covers the difference, or gap, between what is owed and what the insurance company would pay on the claim.

Indemnity

Indemnity is the insurance company’s promise to help return policyholders to the position they were in before a covered incident caused a loss. The insurer “indemnifies” the policyholder from losses by taking on some of the financial responsibility.

Liability Insurance

If you’re at fault in an accident, your liability coverage pays for the other driver’s (or drivers’) car repairs and medical bills.

Coverage limits are often expressed in three numbers. For example, if a policy is written as 25/50/15, it means coverage of up to $25,000 for each person injured in an accident and $50,000 for the entire accident and $15,000 worth of property damage.

The cost of liability-only car insurance varies by state, as does the required minimum level of liability insurance.

Limit

This is the maximum amount a car insurance policy will pay for a particular incident. Coverage limits can vary greatly from one policy to the next.

Medical Payments Coverage

Medical payments coverage (or medical expense coverage, or MedPay) is optional coverage that can help pay medical expenses related to a vehicle accident.

It covers the insured driver, their passengers, and any pedestrians who are injured when there’s an accident, regardless of who caused it.

It also may cover the policyholder when that person is a passenger in another vehicle or is injured by a vehicle when walking, riding a bike, or riding public transportation. This coverage is not available in all states.

No-Fault Insurance

Several states have no-fault laws, which generally means that when there’s a car accident, everyone involved files a claim with their own insurance company, regardless of fault.

Also known as personal injury protection, no-fault insurance covers medical expenses regardless of who’s at fault. It doesn’t mean, however, that fault won’t be determined. No-fault insurance refers to injuries and medical bills. If a person’s car is damaged in an accident and they were not at fault, the at-fault driver’s insurance company will be responsible for the repairs.

Optional Coverage

Optional coverage refers to any car insurance coverage that is not required by law.

Personal Injury Protection

Several states require personal injury protection (PIP) coverage to help pay for medical expenses that an insured driver and any passengers suffer in an accident, regardless of who’s at fault.

PIP also may cover loss of income, funeral expenses, and other costs. PIP is the basic coverage required by no-fault insurance states.

Primary (and Secondary) Driver

The person who drives an insured car the most often is considered its primary driver. Typically, the primary driver is the person who owns or leases the vehicle. If spouses share an insurance policy, they may both be listed as primary drivers on a car or cars.

A car may have multiple secondary, or occasional, drivers. These are generally licensed drivers who live in the same household (children, grandparents, roommates, nannies, etc.) and may use the insured car occasionally but are not the car’s primary driver.

Recommended: Cost of Car Insurance for Young Drivers

Primary Use

This term refers to how a vehicle will most often be used — for commuting to work, for business, for farming, or for pleasure.

Premium

A premium is the amount a person pays for auto insurance. Premiums may be paid monthly, quarterly, twice a year, or annually, depending on personal choice and what the provider allows.

Replacement Cost

Some insurance companies offer replacement cost coverage for newer vehicles. This means that if a car is damaged or stolen, the insurer will pay to replace it with the same vehicle.

Coverage varies by company, and not every insurance company offers replacement coverage.

State-Required Minimum

Every state has different legal minimum requirements for the types and amounts of insurance coverage drivers must have. The limits are usually low. Lenders may require more coverage for those who are buying or leasing a car.

Total Loss or ‘Totaled’

If a car is severely damaged, the insurer may determine that it is a total loss. That usually means the car is so badly damaged that it either can’t be safely repaired or its market value is less than the price of putting it back together.

If a state has a total-loss threshold, an insurer considers the car a total loss when the cost of the damage exceeds the limit set by the state.

Underwriting

The underwriting process involves evaluating the risks (and determining appropriate rates) in insuring a particular driver.

Insurance underwriting these days is often done with a computer program. But if a case is unusual, a professional may step in to further assess the situation.

Uninsured and Underinsured Motorist Coverage

Uninsured motorist and underinsured motorist coverage protects drivers and their passengers who are involved in an accident with a motorist who has little or no insurance. Some states require this coverage, but the limits vary.

Some states require this coverage, but the limits vary.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist bodily injury insurance covers medical costs. Uninsured/underinsured motorist property damage pays to repair a vehicle.

The Takeaway

Understanding car insurance basics is important for drivers. Knowing auto insurance terms, coverage your state or lender may require, and what other types of coverage could further safeguard your finances can make you a more informed consumer.

When you’re ready to shop for auto insurance, SoFi can help. Our online auto insurance comparison tool lets you see quotes from a network of top insurance providers within minutes, saving you time and hassle.

SoFi brings you real rates, with no bait and switch.


Auto Insurance: Must have a valid driver’s license. Not available in all states.
Home and Renters Insurance: Insurance not available in all states.
Experian is a registered trademark of Experian.
SoFi Insurance Agency, LLC. (“”SoFi””) is compensated by Experian for each customer who purchases a policy through the SoFi-Experian partnership.

Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.

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Leasing vs. Buying a Car: What’s Right for You?

So you’ve decided to get a new car. You’ve picked out everything from the color to the floor mats. But pump the brakes. Should you lease or buy? There are many factors to consider.

Check out this overview of leasing vs. buying, plus get help deciding how to save for your next set of wheels.

Key Points

•   Owning a car provides unlimited mileage and the flexibility to sell the vehicle at any time.

•   Leasing a car results in lower monthly payments and the opportunity to drive newer models frequently.

•   Leasing imposes mileage limits and potential fees for excessive wear and tear.

•   Buying a car involves higher upfront costs and ongoing loan payments, but builds equity.

•   Lifestyle and financial stability should be considered when choosing between leasing and buying.

Owning vs. Leasing a Car

When you own a car, you purchase the vehicle outright from a dealer or private owner with cash or by financing it. You can keep it for as long as you want, and you can sell it in the future, if you wish.

When you lease a car, you do not own the vehicle. Instead, you make monthly payments to the owner for the right to use the vehicle. You must return the car at the end of your lease agreement or buy it at that time.

Initial Costs

When buying a car, the upfront costs are fairly obvious. You either need enough money to buy the car outright, or you need a big enough down payment to start financing the vehicle. Financing will also involve taxes, registration fees, and other charges.

When financing a car, it’s a good idea to look at the total cost: Multiply the monthly payment by the number of months in the loan, add the cost of taxes, fees, and add-ons, and finally subtract the value of any trade-in or down payment. The result is your total cost.

With leasing, the upfront costs can vary. Typically, the initial costs to lease a car include at least the first month’s payment, a security deposit, taxes, registration fees, and an acquisition fee.

Some lease charges are negotiable, according to Edmunds. They include the cap cost, or basically what the vehicle would sell for, and sometimes the “money factor,” or interest rate.

If you suspect that a dealer is marking up the money factor, you could ask for a lease based on its “buy rate” — the rate you could get from one of the dealer’s lending partners without the dealer markup.

Many other factors that may be negotiable during the leasing process are the mileage allowance (you can always try to get a higher allowance without paying extra fees); the trade-in value of any car you’re trading in; and, if you plan to buy the leased vehicle after the term, the buyout price (you can try to haggle for an amount lower than the anticipated value of the vehicle at the end of the lease).

Monthly Costs

If you buy a vehicle outright, you will not have to make any monthly payments, of course. If you take out a loan, you will need to make a payment toward the principal, plus interest, each month. You’ll also need a good credit score to finance a car.

When leasing a car, you will be required to make monthly payments that include interest charges and taxes.

Regardless of whether you lease or buy your car, remember to budget for recurring costs, such as fuel and auto insurance.

Recommended: Car vs Truck Value: Comparing How They Depreciate

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Better to Lease or Buy a Vehicle?

When you own your car, it’s yours, and you can drive it as often as you’d like. If it’s a new purchase, you’ll get a manufacturer’s warranty for three years and sometimes longer.

When you lease, typically for three or four years, the number of miles you can drive in a given year is usually limited to 10,000 to 15,000. If you exceed the mileage limit, you will pay an additional fee per mile.

Beyond mileage, you may have to be more careful when driving a leased car. Any scratches, dents, or dings could come with wear-and-tear penalties.

What about repairs? A leased car is usually still covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. Basic maintenance may also be covered.

Two other broad thoughts:

Consider Your Lifestyle

If you’re someone who simply loves to go on road trips with your mountain bike, surfboard, and camping gear in tow, owning may be a good option. That way, you never have to worry about how many miles you’ll log or the scratches your car will get during your adventures.

If you’re looking for a commuter car, or if you like to have the newest model with the latest tech accessories, leasing a car may be the way to go. When your lease is up, you can look for something new.

Just realize that when the lease ends, you may face a turn-in fee if you don’t lease another car from the dealer.

Recommended: How to Spot Good vs. Bad Car Value Estimates

Consider Your Finances

Before deciding to buy or lease a car, it’s crucial to look at your current financial situation.

If you have enough money tucked away to purchase the car outright, would you still have money in savings?

Or if you’re looking to take out a loan, do you have enough money coming in each month to cover the payments? Do you have enough money in an emergency fund to cover unforeseen events? If you can answer yes to these questions, you may be in good shape to buy a vehicle.

As for leasing, you should assess whether you have enough income to cover the lease payments for the entire term. Breaking a lease can be an expensive proposition: It means paying the balance due, including any penalties and fees.

You also want to ensure that you have enough money to cover any unexpected expenses, including costs for going over your mileage limit.

Recommended: Does Paying Off a Car Loan Help Your Credit?

Dollars & Sense of Leasing or Buying a Car

The monthly cost of leasing a vehicle is often lower than auto loan payments. But to parse it further, consider the costs of buying a new vs. used car. (Buying a high-mileage car has its own pros and cons.)

In one detailed comparison of leasing a car, buying a new car, and buying a used car, over the course of six years the total costs for a used car were the lowest (the comparison did not include any repairs). Leasing was the next lowest. Buying a new car had the highest total costs.

Here’s another wrinkle if you do lease: If you decide to buy the car at the end of the contract, you’ll likely pay thousands of dollars more than if you had bought it from the get-go.

The Takeaway

The decision to lease vs. buy a car can rest on factors like total costs, annual mileage, and the urge to drive the latest model every few years. As you weigh your options, consider how you plan on using the car and what your financial situation will allow.

When you’re ready to shop for auto insurance, SoFi can help. Our online auto insurance comparison tool lets you see quotes from a network of top insurance providers within minutes, saving you time and hassle.

SoFi brings you real rates, with no bait and switch.


Auto Insurance: Must have a valid driver’s license. Not available in all states.
Home and Renters Insurance: Insurance not available in all states.
Experian is a registered trademark of Experian.
SoFi Insurance Agency, LLC. (“”SoFi””) is compensated by Experian for each customer who purchases a policy through the SoFi-Experian partnership.


Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners.

Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.

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