What Is An HDHP Plan?

What Is An HDHP?

A high deductible health plan, or HDHP, has a higher deductible than other types of insurance plans, as the name implies.

In return for higher deductibles, these plans usually charge lower premiums than other types of health plans.
You can combine a HDHP with a tax-advantaged health savings account (HSA). Money saved in an HSA can be used to pay for out-of-pocket, qualified medical expenses before the deductible kicks in.

An HDHP can be a good, affordable health insurance option for people who are relatively healthy and don’t see doctors or receive medical services frequently.

But these plans may not be the best choice for everyone. Read on for important things to know about HDHPs.

How Does a High Deductible Health Plan Work?

When you sign up for an HDHP, you will pay most of your medical bills out of pocket until you reach the deductible (with some exceptions, explained below).

Your deductible is the amount you’ll pay out of pocket for medical expenses before your insurance pays anything.

Under current law, in order to be considered an HDHP, the deductible must be at least $1,400 for an individual, and at least $7,000 for a family.

But deductibles can be significantly higher than these minimums, and are allowed to be as high as $2,800 for an individual and $14,000 for a family.

As with other insurance plans, HDHPs come with out-of-pocket maximums. This is the most you would ever have to pay out of pocket–that includes your deductible, copayments, and coinsurance (but exclude premiums and medical costs not covered by your plan).

Out-of-pocket maximums for HDHP plans can’t exceed $2,800 for an individual and $14,000 for a family.
Despite the high deductible with HDHPs, some health care costs may be covered 100 percent even before you meet your deductible.

The government requires all HDHPs sold on the federal insurance marketplace and many other HDHP plans to cover a fair number of preventive services without charging you a copayment or coinsurance, even if you haven’t met your deductible.

You can find a list of those covered services for adults , specifically for women , and for children at HealthCare.gov.

How Does an HDHP Work With a Health Savings Account?

When you purchase a high deductible health plan, whether it’s through the federal marketplace, an employer, or directly through an insurance company, you may also open a health savings account (HSA).

You can put aside pre-tax income in the HSA to help pay your deductible or other qualified health care expenses. However, HSA funds typically can not be used to pay for health insurance premiums.

Earnings also grow tax-free in an HSA account, and withdrawals used to pay for qualified healthcare expenses are not subject to federal taxes. As a result, HSAs can result in significant tax savings.

Currently the maximum you can save in an HSA each year and receive the tax benefits is $3,600 for an individual and $7,200 for a family. Some employers make contributions to employee HSA accounts as part of their benefits package.

HSAs are also portable, meaning you take your HSA with you when you change jobs or leave your employer for any reason. Your HSA balance rolls over year to year, so you can build up reserves to pay for health care items and services you need later.

You may contribute to an HSA only if you have an HDHP.

What are the Pros and Cons of HDHPs?

As with any health insurance plan, there are both advantages and disadvantages of HDHPs. Here are some to consider.

Advantages of HDHPs

•  Lower premiums. In exchange for the high deductible, HDHPs typically charge lower premiums than traditional healthcare plans like PPOs.
•  You can combine an HDHP with an HSA. This can help you cover out-of-pocket medical expenses with pre-tax dollars, which make these costs more affordable. And, these accounts never expire.
•  You get the same essential benefits and no-cost preventive care as other plans. HDHPs are required to cover the same types of healthcare expenses as other plans (after you meet the deductible). And, they offer the same no-cost preventive services as their more expensive counterparts.

Disadvantages of HDHPs

•  High out-of-pocket costs due to high deductibles. You will need to pay for medical expenses out of pocket (because of the high deductible), while also paying your monthly premiums.
•  A disincentive to receive care. You might be inclined to skip doctor visits because you’re not used to having such high out-of-pocket costs. Forgoing treatment, however, could cause more serious health problems down the line.
•  Emergencies can be expensive. If you need unexpected care or go to the hospital, an HDHP will not pay anything until you have met your high deductible. This can mean having to come with a significant amount of cash to cover your medical bills.

HDHPs vs. PPOs

A preferred provider organization, or PPO, is a traditional type of health plan that usually has a lower deductible than an HDHP, but charges higher premiums.

With a PPO, you will typically only have to pay a copayment, or “copay,” when you see a doctor or fill a prescription.

For other medical services and treatments, you will likely have to pay out of pocket until you reach the deductible, but that will happen sooner than it would with a HDHP.

Both PPOs and HDHPs typically have a network of providers you can work with to get the best rates.

In a PPO, however, the provider list may be smaller than it is with an HDHP. To get the best rate on your care, members of either type of plan will want to be sure they are sticking to that list.

A PPO may be advantageous if you go to the doctor a lot and/or run into unexpected medical expenses, since you start to get help from the health plan much earlier in the year than you might with an HDHP.

A PPO could end up costing you more, however, if you end up having a year with low medical expenses.

The Takeaway

So are HDHPs worth it? With an HDHP, you will likely pay a lower monthly premium than you would with a traditional health plan, such as a PPO, but you will have a higher deductible. If you combine your HDHP with an HSA, you can pay that deductible, plus other qualified medical expenses, using money you set aside in your tax-free HSA. If you are young and/or generally healthy with no chronic or long-term conditions, an HDHP may be the most affordable option for you.

On the other hand, if you have a medical condition and you make frequent doctor visits, you may find you need coverage that kicks in sooner than it would with an HDHP plan. It can be a good idea to estimate your health expenses for the upcoming year and get a rough idea of how much you will be responsible for out of pocket with an HDHP before you sign up. You might want to use a budgeting app, such as SoFi Relay, which makes it easy to categorize and track all of your expenses in one mobile dashboard.

Health insurance is just one way to protect your budget, but making sure you have insurance on your home can also help you avoid expenses in the future. SoFi Protect and Gabi offer insurance for both renters and homeowners, so you can be sure that your home, and the things inside you care about, are protected.

Check out insurance offerings with SoFi Protect today.


SoFi Relay offers users the ability to connect both SoFi accounts and external accounts using Plaid, Inc.’s service. When you use the service to connect an account, you authorize SoFi to obtain account information from any external accounts as set forth in SoFi’s Terms of Use. Based on your consent SoFi will also automatically provide some financial data received from the credit bureau for your visibility, without the need of you connecting additional accounts. SoFi assumes no responsibility for the timeliness, accuracy, deletion, non-delivery or failure to store any user data, loss of user data, communications, or personalization settings. You shall confirm the accuracy of Plaid data through sources independent of SoFi. The credit score is a VantageScore® based on TransUnion® (the “Processing Agent”) data.

Insurance not available in all states.
Gabi is a registered service mark of Gabi Personal Insurance Agency, Inc.
SoFi is compensated by Gabi for each customer who completes an application through the SoFi-Gabi partnership.


Tax Information: This article provides general background information only and is not intended to serve as legal or tax advice or as a substitute for legal counsel. You should consult your own attorney and/or tax advisor if you have a question requiring legal or tax advice.

Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.

External Websites: The information and analysis provided through hyperlinks to third-party websites, while believed to be accurate, cannot be guaranteed by SoFi. Links are provided for informational purposes and should not be viewed as an endorsement.

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Homeowners Insurance Coverage Options to Know

Homeowners Insurance Coverage Options to Know

If you’re like many Americans, your home is the single largest purchase you’ll ever make–and one you likely can’t afford to replace if disaster strikes.

That’s why homeowners insurance can be a wise investment. This type of insurance will compensate you if an event covered under your policy damages or destroys your home or personal items.

It will also cover you in certain instances if you injure someone else or cause property damage.

Although having homeowners insurance isn’t required by law, mortgage lenders often require you to insure your home until you’ve paid the loan in full.

Choosing the right coverage for your home–and understanding exactly what is (and what isn’t) covered–can be confusing though.

Some policies cover more than others, and how much coverage you need will depend on your circumstances, as well as your risk tolerance.

Here’s what you need to know about the options available for protecting your home.

Recommended: What’s the Difference Between Homeowners Insurance and Title Insurance?

What Does Homeowners Insurance Typically Cover?


Most standard homeowners insurance policies include six different kinds of important coverage.

•  Dwelling: This covers the physical structure of the home itself, including its foundation, walls, and roof, as well as structures attached to the home such as a front porch.
•  Other structures on your property: This covers things that aren’t attached to the main home structure, like garages and fences.
•  Personal property: This includes personal items including clothing, furniture, and everything else that you put inside your home.
•  Additional living expenses: This provides funds to pay for temporary living expenses, such as hotel costs and restaurant meals, while your home is being repaired or rebuilt.
•  Liability coverage: This protects you against lawsuits and damages you or your family cause to other people or their property.
•  Medical coverage: This is offered to foot the bills incurred by somebody who is injured on your property, whether it’s your fault or theirs.

What Type of Events Does Homeowners Insurance Cover?


The most common type of homeowners insurance policy on the market is called HO-3 insurance.

This insurance includes coverage of 16 specifically named perils, but it may also offer “open peril” coverage, which means that anything that damages your dwelling that is not specifically excluded in the paperwork will be covered by the policy. (This coverage generally does not extend to your personal property, however.)

The 16 named perils typically include:

•  Fire or lightning
•  Windstorms or hail
•  Explosions
•  Riots
•  Damage caused by aircraft
•  Damage caused by vehicles
•  Smoke
•  Vandalism
•  Theft
•  Volcanic eruptions
•  Falling objects
•  Damage due to the weight of ice, snow or sleet
•  Water or steam overflow from plumbing, HVAC systems, internal sprinklers and other appliances
•  Damage due the “sudden and accidental tearing apart,cracking, burning, or bulging” of an HVAC, water-heating, or fire-protective system
•  Freezing of pipes and other household appliances
•  Damage due to a power surge

What Isn’t Covered by Homeowners Insurance?


Homeowners insurance typically covers most scenarios where a loss could occur. However, some events are generally excluded from policies. These often include:

•  Earthquakes, landslides and sinkholes
•  Infestations by birds, vermin, fungus or mold
•  Wear and tear or neglect
•  Nuclear hazard
•  Government action (including war)
•  Power failure

What if you live in a flood or hurricane area? Or an area with a history of earthquakes? You may want to consider a rider (which is supplementary coverage to an existing policy) for these or an extra policy for earthquake insurance or flood insurance.

Home insurance policies also typically set special limits on the amount of reimbursement you can receive in categories such as artwork, jewelry, appliances, tools, electronics, clothing, cash, and firearms.

If you own something particularly valuable, such as fine art painting or piece of expensive jewelry, you might want to purchase a rider that you will be reimbursed in full for it.

What Should I look for in a Homeowners Insurance Policy?


Homeowners insurance companies typically offer three different reimbursement models or levels of coverage.

Which one you choose can be an important decision. That’s because it will impact how you will be reimbursed in the event your home is damaged or burglarized, and also the cost of your premiums.

These are the most common homeowners policy options, listed from least to most costly.

Actual Cash Value


Actual cash value typically covers the cost of the house plus the value of your belongings after deducting depreciation (i.e., how much the items are currently worth, not how much you paid for them). If your five-year-old TV was stolen, for instance, you would not likely get reimbursed for the cost of a brand-new one.

Replacement Cost Value


Replacement value policies generally cover the actual cash value of your home and possessions without the deduction for depreciation, so you would likely be able to repair or rebuild your home and re-buy your possessions up to the original value.

Extended Replacement Cost Value


This coverage will typically pay out more than the original value of your home and belongings, up to a specified limit, if it actually costs more to fix your home and/or replace your possessions.

The limit can be a dollar amount or a percentage, such as 25% above your dwelling coverage amount. This gives you a cushion if rebuilding is more expensive than you expected.

Guaranteed Replacement Cost Value


Guaranteed Replacement Cost is the most comprehensive coverage. This inflation-buffer policy pays for whatever it costs to repair or rebuild your home and replace your possessions—even if it’s more than your policy limit.

This type of coverage can be ideal since you typically don’t need just enough insurance to cover the value of your home, you will likely need enough insurance to rebuild your home, preferably at current prices.

Understanding Homeowners Insurance Deductibles


Homeowners policies typically include an insurance deductible — the amount you’re required to cover before your insurer starts paying.

The deductible can be a flat dollar amount, such as $500 or $1,000. Or, it might be a percentage, such as 1 or 2 percent of the home’s insured value.

When you receive a claim check, an insurer typically subtracts your deductible amount from the total claim.

For instance, if you have a $1,000 deductible and your insurer approves a claim for $8,000 in repairs, the insurer would likely pay $7,000 and you would be responsible for the remaining $1,000.

Choosing a higher deductible will usually reduce your premium. However, you would likely have to shoulder more of the financial burden should you need to file a claim.

A lower deductible, on the other hand, means you might have a higher premium but your insurer would likely pick up a greater portion of the tab after an incident.

The Takeaway


Of the many types of insurance coverage out there on the market, homeowners insurance is one of the most important–it literally protects the roof over your head, which very well might also be your most valuable asset.

Homeowners insurance covers damage to your home and its contents. It also typically reimburses you for losses due to theft and pays out if visitors to your property are injured.

Your policy may also pay for living expenses, such as a hotel stay, if your home becomes uninhabitable.

In some cases, you can get additional policies or riders for events not covered by your regular home insurance, such as flooding, as well as extra coverage for any highly valuable possessions.

Because choosing the right homeowners insurance company and right amount of coverage can be overwhelming, SoFi has partnered with Lemonade to help bring customizable and affordable homeowners insurance to our members.

Prices start as low as $25 per month, and Lemonade gives back leftover money to charities of your choice.

Check out homeowners insurance options offered through SoFi Protect.


SoFi offers customers the opportunity to reach the following Insurance Agents:
Home & Renters: Lemonade Insurance Agency (LIA) is acting as the agent of Lemonade Insurance Company in selling this insurance policy, in which it receives compensation based on the premiums for the insurance policies it sells.


Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.

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grocery and product in bag mobile

How to Make a Monthly Budget

Some good news about budgeting: According to a 2020 Debt.com survey, as many as 80 percent of Americans are now doing some form of budgeting. The top reasons for using a budget, according to the survey, include increasing wealth and savings and managing debt.

While not everyone loves the idea of budgeting, taking a moment to assess and prioritize your spending can yield some real rewards. Even a basic monthly budget can help you reach your financial goals, whether it’s to have a financial cushion, put a downpayment on a new home, go on your dream vacation, or all of the above.

The most common reason cited for not budgeting in Debt.com’s survey was making too little money. But the truth is that you don’t have to make a lot to benefit from having a budget. Indeed, budgeting can be particularly helpful when money is tight.

Whether you’re brand new to budgeting or looking to improve your budgeting skills, read on. Below are some simple steps that can help you keep better tabs on your cash flow and improve your financial life.

Gathering All of Your Financial Information

While estimating your income and monthly costs can work in a pinch, to make your budget as complete (and accurate) as possible, you’ll want to start by gathering up at least three months worth of financial documents and receipts.

Here are some documents that may be helpful:

•   Pay stubs
•   Bank statements
•   Credit card statements
•   Rent/Mortgage bill
•   HOA
•   Electricity bill
•   Water bill
•   Internet bill
•   Cable bill
•   Childcare/School Tuition statements
•   Monthly public transportation passes
•   Recurring healthcare costs like deductibles or prescriptions
•   Student loan statements
•   Insurance statements

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No account or overdraft fees. No minimum balance.

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Figuring Out Your Monthly Take-Home Income

Although you may be able to rattle off your annual income without thinking, when creating a budget you’ll want to look more closely at your pay stub to determine your take-home pay. That’s how much is left after all of the deductions (such as federal, state, and local taxes, retirement savings, and insurance) are taken out.

If you’re self-employed, you’ll need to subtract your self-employment income tax before calculating your net monthly income.

Determining your take-home pay is important because if you use your annual income to make your budget, you might end up thinking that you have more money available to you every month than actually shows up in your checking account.

If you’re budgeting with another person, you’ll also want to tally up that person’s take-home pay as well. It’s a good idea to also include any additional household income, such as that from investments or social security.
All together, these will give you a good idea of how much actual cash you have to budget with each month.

Tallying Up Monthly Expenses

Once you’ve nailed down how much money you’re bringing in each month, it’s time to look at how much money you’re sending out into the world each month. This is where all the paperwork you gathered can really come in handy.

A simple way to start is to write down how much you’re paying for all your fixed (or recurring) monthly bills, such as rent/mortgage, car payments, insurance, health care expenses, utilities, subscriptions.

Once you’ve got your regular bills accounted for, you can look at variable expenses, such as groceries, entertainment, and other discretionary expenses. With variable expenses, it’s helpful to look back at your bank statement, as well as receipts from the previous few weeks or months, and calculate an average.

If you tend not to save receipts, it can be useful to actually track your spending (by carrying a notebook, using a app, or collecting receipts and recording them later) for a week or more in order to better assess your daily spending.

Below are some sample budget categories and expenses that you may want to include:

Housing
•   Rent
•   Utilities
•   HOA
•   Maintenance costs
•   Home/renter’s insurance

Transportation
•   Gas
•   Tolls
•   Maintenance costs
•   Car Loan
•   Public transportation tickets or passes
•   Taxis or ride shares
•   Parking pass
•   Insurance payments

Children
•   Childcare expenses
•   After-school care costs
•   Tuition
•   Tutoring
•   Babysitting

Education
•   Tuition
•   Books
•   Student loans
•   Student fees

Food
•   Groceries
•   Take-out
•   Eating out

Financial
•   Bank fees
•   Service fees
•   Credit card payments
•   Life insurance
•   Disability insurance
•   Retirement fund
•   Investments
•   Emergency fund

Healthcare
•   Doctor appointment co-pays
•   Prescription costs
•   Over-the-counter medication costs

Entertainment
•   Movie tickets
•   Special events
•   Concerts
•   Streaming media services
•   Books
•   Nonbusiness travel

Pets
•   Pet insurance
•   Food and treats
•   Flea and tick preventative
•   Medications
•   Vet bills

Shopping/Personal Care
•   Clothing
•   Shoes
•   Accessories
•   Toiletries/Cosmetics
•   Haircuts/styling
•   Shaves/Manicures
•   Gym membership

When it comes to expenses that only occur in certain months, such as tuition for summer camp, you can divide the total by 12 in order to figure out how much you should be saving each month to cover these seasonal costs.

Once you have a list of all your monthly expenses, you may be alerted to trends you might not have noticed before (like $75 a month on morning coffees).

You’ll also be able to add it all up to see what your overall average monthly spending is. Ideally, this number is less than the amount of take-home pay you calculated above.

Planning and Creating a Budget

Now that you’ve got a grip on how much money you have coming in, and how much is going out, it’s time to actually create a plan for how you want to spend your money–in other words a budget–rather than spending haphazardly.

You can create a budget using pen and paper or a spreadsheet on your computer. There are also a number of budgeting apps, such as SoFi Relay, that can simplify the process.

There are several different ways to approach spending targets and savings goals in your budget.

One commonly recommended guideline it the 50/20/30 budget, which breaks up your spending and saving like this:

•  50 percent on “needs” or essential expenses (such as housing, utilities, auto payments, insurance, repairs, healthcare, childcare, minimum payments on debts, and education).
•  30 percent on “wants” or discretionary expenses (e.g., shopping, entertainment, personal care, travel).
•  20 percent towards savings (such as an emergency fund, paying more than the minimum on debts, retirement, and other savings).

These percentages are guidelines, however, and you may decide to re-jigger them based on your financial situation, current expenses, and goals.

If the cost of housing is high in your area, for example, you may need to allot more to the “needs” bucket. Or, if you have a big expense or a trip you want to take in six months, you may want to bump up savings, at least temporarily.

If you find that your spending is currently higher than your income, or doesn’t allow for monthly savings or debt reduction, you may need to find places where you can cut back.

It’s often simplest to do this in the “wants” category. For example, you might decide you can cook more and eat out less often, ditch that pricy cable bill, use the library instead of buying digital and audio books, or cut back on clothing purchases.

Once you’ve set up your spending and saving targets, you’ll want to track your progress, either by manually tracking your spending or using an app. Along the way, you may find that you have to adjust your spending to stay better aligned with your budget, or you might find that you need to adjust your budget to make it work better for you.

The Takeaway

A budget can help you achieve your financial goals, whether it’s knocking down debt, saving up for something fun, or funding your retirement.

While the process may sound intimidating, budgeting is really just a matter of figuring out what your current income and expenses are, seeing how they line up (or don’t), and then deciding how you may want to shift your spending in order to reach your goals.

It can also be helpful to remember that even if you have a budget, it will only be useful if you periodically track and update it to reflect any changes in your income, expenses, or financial goals.

If you need help tracking your spending, a checking and savings account with SoFi might be a great choice for you. With SoFi Checking and Savings, you can easily see your weekly spending (and make sure you’re on track with your budget) in your dashboard in the app.

Ready to take your budget to the next level? Find out more about how SoFi Checking and Savings can help you track your spending and budget effectively.


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SoFi Money® is a cash management account, which is a brokerage product, offered by SoFi Securities LLC, member
FINRA / SIPC .
SoFi Securities LLC is an affiliate of SoFi Bank, N.A. SoFi Money Debit Card issued by The Bancorp Bank.
SoFi has partnered with Allpoint to provide consumers with ATM access at any of the 55,000+ ATMs within the Allpoint network. Consumers will not be charged a fee when using an in-network ATM, however, third party fees incurred when using out-of-network ATMs are not subject to reimbursement. SoFi’s ATM policies are subject to change at our discretion at any time.
SoFi Relay offers users the ability to connect both SoFi accounts and external accounts using Plaid, Inc.’s service. When you use the service to connect an account, you authorize SoFi to obtain account information from any external accounts as set forth in SoFi’s Terms of Use. Based on your consent SoFi will also automatically provide some financial data received from the credit bureau for your visibility, without the need of you connecting additional accounts. SoFi assumes no responsibility for the timeliness, accuracy, deletion, non-delivery or failure to store any user data, loss of user data, communications, or personalization settings. You shall confirm the accuracy of Plaid data through sources independent of SoFi. The credit score is a VantageScore® based on TransUnion® (the “Processing Agent”) data.

Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.

Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners.

SoFi members with direct deposit activity can earn 4.00% annual percentage yield (APY) on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% APY on checking balances. Direct Deposit means a recurring deposit of regular income to an account holder’s SoFi Checking or Savings account, including payroll, pension, or government benefit payments (e.g., Social Security), made by the account holder’s employer, payroll or benefits provider or government agency (“Direct Deposit”) via the Automated Clearing House (“ACH”) Network during a 30-day Evaluation Period (as defined below). Deposits that are not from an employer or government agency, including but not limited to check deposits, peer-to-peer transfers (e.g., transfers from PayPal, Venmo, etc.), merchant transactions (e.g., transactions from PayPal, Stripe, Square, etc.), and bank ACH funds transfers and wire transfers from external accounts, or are non-recurring in nature (e.g., IRS tax refunds), do not constitute Direct Deposit activity. There is no minimum Direct Deposit amount required to qualify for the stated interest rate. SoFi members with direct deposit are eligible for other SoFi Plus benefits.

As an alternative to direct deposit, SoFi members with Qualifying Deposits can earn 4.00% APY on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% APY on checking balances. Qualifying Deposits means one or more deposits that, in the aggregate, are equal to or greater than $5,000 to an account holder’s SoFi Checking and Savings account (“Qualifying Deposits”) during a 30-day Evaluation Period (as defined below). Qualifying Deposits only include those deposits from the following eligible sources: (i) ACH transfers, (ii) inbound wire transfers, (iii) peer-to-peer transfers (i.e., external transfers from PayPal, Venmo, etc. and internal peer-to-peer transfers from a SoFi account belonging to another account holder), (iv) check deposits, (v) instant funding to your SoFi Bank Debit Card, (vi) push payments to your SoFi Bank Debit Card, and (vii) cash deposits. Qualifying Deposits do not include: (i) transfers between an account holder’s Checking account, Savings account, and/or Vaults; (ii) interest payments; (iii) bonuses issued by SoFi Bank or its affiliates; or (iv) credits, reversals, and refunds from SoFi Bank, N.A. (“SoFi Bank”) or from a merchant. SoFi members with Qualifying Deposits are not eligible for other SoFi Plus benefits.

SoFi Bank shall, in its sole discretion, assess each account holder’s Direct Deposit activity and Qualifying Deposits throughout each 30-Day Evaluation Period to determine the applicability of rates and may request additional documentation for verification of eligibility. The 30-Day Evaluation Period refers to the “Start Date” and “End Date” set forth on the APY Details page of your account, which comprises a period of 30 calendar days (the “30-Day Evaluation Period”). You can access the APY Details page at any time by logging into your SoFi account on the SoFi mobile app or SoFi website and selecting either (i) Banking > Savings > Current APY or (ii) Banking > Checking > Current APY. Upon receiving a Direct Deposit or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits to your account, you will begin earning 4.00% APY on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% on checking balances on or before the following calendar day. You will continue to earn these APYs for (i) the remainder of the current 30-Day Evaluation Period and through the end of the subsequent 30-Day Evaluation Period and (ii) any following 30-day Evaluation Periods during which SoFi Bank determines you to have Direct Deposit activity or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits without interruption.

SoFi Bank reserves the right to grant a grace period to account holders following a change in Direct Deposit activity or Qualifying Deposits activity before adjusting rates. If SoFi Bank grants you a grace period, the dates for such grace period will be reflected on the APY Details page of your account. If SoFi Bank determines that you did not have Direct Deposit activity or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits during the current 30-day Evaluation Period and, if applicable, the grace period, then you will begin earning the rates earned by account holders without either Direct Deposit or Qualifying Deposits until you have Direct Deposit activity or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits in a subsequent 30-Day Evaluation Period. For the avoidance of doubt, an account holder with both Direct Deposit activity and Qualifying Deposits will earn the rates earned by account holders with Direct Deposit.

Members without either Direct Deposit activity or Qualifying Deposits, as determined by SoFi Bank, during a 30-Day Evaluation Period and, if applicable, the grace period, will earn 1.20% APY on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% APY on checking balances.

Interest rates are variable and subject to change at any time. These rates are current as of 12/3/24. There is no minimum balance requirement. Additional information can be found at https://www.sofi.com/legal/banking-rate-sheet.

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How to Start Investing This Year

How to Start Investing This Year

You’ve probably been in one of these conversations, before. Someone who’s older, maybe a teacher or a family member, encourages you to start investing as soon as possible. It’s well-meaning advice.

On an academic level, you know that the younger you get started, the more you can allow the magic of compounding investment returns to work in your favor. You’re also committed to prioritizing your own financial health, and you feel inspired to work towards your own personal financial freedom.

Every new investor has to start somewhere, and there’s no better time than this year.

So, you’ve got the right idea, but you don’t have a playbook. No one taught you how to invest. You’ve heard of Roth IRAs and mutual funds, but how do you know that you’re doing the right thing?

Further, there are a lot of people with divergent opinions on the best way to invest. It’s hard to know where to go and who to listen to.

Much of learning to invest means learning to navigate the options and the conflicting advice and then distilling that down into a portfolio that makes the most sense for you and your goals.

Here are some suggestions for how to start investing in five easy steps.

1. Understanding the Options

While the universe of investment options sometimes feels limitless, it’s not. With knowledge of the core building blocks of investing, you’ll be better able to navigate the available options with ease.

Investors have a variety of options available to them, including: stocks, bonds, cash or money market funds, real estate, private equity, investment partnerships, and natural resources, like gold. These are assets, essentially, things that have economic value and can store wealth. Beginner investors may focus largely on stocks and maybe bonds.

Stocks

A stock represents a share of ownership in a company. Shareholders can make money in two ways: through the value of shares appreciating, and through dividend payouts. Although this is an oversimplification, the success of a stock will generally be correlated to the success of the underlying business. This is highly unpredictable, which leads to the volatile nature of stock prices overall.

Bonds

Bonds, on the other hand, are investments in the debt of a company or government. In this case, the bondholder is the lender, collecting a rate of interest on that debt. The terms of the contract are agreed upon at the outset. Therefore, they are typically less volatile as stocks, although they can lose value.

An investment portfolio generally includes a variety of assets, including both stocks and bonds, for diversification. The purpose of diversification is to minimize risk, especially over the long-term.

Exchange-Traded Funds (ETFs)

What about mutual funds and exchange-traded funds (ETFs)? Funds are pools of investments. It may be helpful to think of a fund as a basket that holds a bunch of investments, such as stocks, bonds, or real estate holdings. For example, an S&P 500 index mutual fund or ETF holds the 500 leading stocks in the US. Therefore, an investment in this fund is really an investment in the US stock market.

Funds are a popular and easy option for investors looking to get broad exposure to whichever market it is that you’d like to invest within. Depending on the fund, this could also be an affordable way to invest. It is a common misconception that you need to invest in individual stocks to be a good stock market investor.

2. Creating a Goals-Based Investment Plan

The decision on which asset class to be invested in, and in what proportions, is an important one. It is called asset allocation. Although it is tempting to dive right into trying to pick out the “best” stocks, it may be appropriate to first take a step back and ask whether stocks are appropriate given your goals.

The next logical question is this: How does one determine asset allocation? Start by determining what the goal or intended use of the money is. To determine your personal investment mix, conduct an examination of your financial goals, risk tolerance, and investment time horizon.

At its core, the asset allocation decision is one regarding your comfort level with the tradeoff between risk versus reward. In investing, risk and reward are intrinsically connected. In order to have the potential for more reward, you have to take more risk. Be leery of investment options that tout “all reward and no risk.” Unfortunately, such an investment may be too good to be true because risk is an inherent part of investing.

A couple of questions worth asking yourself are: What is my goal with this money? When do I need the money? Last, what kind of risk am I willing to take with this money? Then, take these answers and match them up with one or a handful of the available investment options.

It’s may be easier to wrap your noodle around when we consider two different examples of two investors:

Our first investor is saving up for a down payment on a home. They plan to use that money within one year. For them, the risk of losing any money in a potentially volatile investment outweighs the possibility of earning investment returns. Instead of investing, they decide to keep this money in cash, in a savings account.

Next, our second investor. They’re new to investing, with plans to begin investing in a retirement account. They want to focus on growth over the long-term. Because they have a long time horizon for their investments, they have the time to ride through any short-term volatility, so they are more comfortable with the risks of the stock market. They may build out a portfolio that is primarily invested in the stock market, and for diversification purposes, they may decide to include some exposure to bonds as well.

As you can probably tell, there’s no one “right” asset allocation for any one individual, nor is there a universal formula for determining asset allocation. Investors who are learning how to start investing may want to take some time thinking about what allocation makes the most sense for them.

3. Opening an Account

Here’s another common misconception about investing. A Roth IRA and a 401(k) are not investments. These are accounts, just as a brokerage account, that hold investments. Retirement accounts, such as a Roth IRA or 401k, simply have special tax treatment.

Which account you decide on depends on a few factors. First, what are you investing for?

If you are investing for the long-term, then a retirement account may be most appropriate. Retirement accounts can either be opened individually or through your employer. If your employer offers a plan, this could be a good place to start. (And yes, picking funds or a strategy within a 401(k) or 403(b) counts as investing.)

If you are self-employed or do not have a plan through work, you may want to open an individual retirement account. Some options include a traditional or Roth IRA, Solo or Individual 401(k), and SEP IRA.

Because these accounts come with some tax benefits, they also have their own special rules, like when you can withdraw money and limits on how much money can be contributed each year. To determine which type of account that makes the most sense for your personal situation, you may want to speak with a tax professional.

If you would prefer to invest with more flexibility, you may want to open a brokerage or other general-purpose investment account. Though those accounts do not have the tax benefits of a retirement account, they also don’t have restrictions on when the money can be accessed and no penalties for withdrawals before retirement age.

No matter which account type you choose, remember: this is just an account. After opening the account, it will be funded with cash, likely by hooking up an existing checking or savings account. Once the account is funded with cash, that money can be used to buy investments.

If you are opening your own investing account (as opposed to using your workplace retirement plan), you will have to choose a brokerage account or online investing platform. When choosing your account, it helps to pay attention to the fees charged by the platform. Investing costs can dig into your potential returns. SoFi knows that new investors don’t want to pay a bunch in fees just to get in the game. There are no commissions on the SoFi Invest® platform.

4. Deciding How Much to Invest

This may sound oversimplified, but start with whatever you’re comfortable with, knowing that this money will be subjected to some amount of risk. Generally, this should be money that you won’t need in the near-term. That said, one of the greatest features of investing in the modern era is that you can get started with any amount.

There are a few ways to look at this. The first is to consider where you’re at in your own financial journey. It is often recommended that people first work on saving up an emergency fund and paying off credit cards and high-interest debt. And if COVID-19 has taught us anything, it’s that having a firm financial foundation is incredibly important. If you have yet to build up a sufficient safety net or maintain expensive debt on your personal balance sheet, this could be a good place to focus.

It’s easy to get hung up on the “invest versus pay off debt” decision. Here’s a simple place to start: compare interest rates. On debt, it’s the interest rate that you’re paying. On investing, it’s on the interest that you could potentially earn. So for example, if you’re deciding between aggressively paying off a private student loan with a 12% rate of interest or investing at what you expect could be a 7% rate of return, perhaps this makes your decision for you.

That said, it’s not as if you have to be completely debt-free in order to start building wealth. Instead, take some personal inventory. If you feel like you’re missing out on achieving investment and compound returns, then perhaps you’ll want to make investing a priority. If you feel like you’re being weighed down by debt, then maybe you’ll want to give expedited debt pay-off your energy.

If you have arrived at a place of debt repayment that feels manageable, you may want to consider investing as a piece of your overall budget. (Ever hear someone say, “pay yourself first?” This is what they are referring to.) One popular budget, called the 50/30/20 budget, recommends allocating 20% of income towards saving and investing. If you’d like to reach a place of financial freedom sooner than this, then you may want to consider saving more, as a percentage of your overall income.

5. Selecting Investments

Now the fun part of learning how to invest; choosing the actual investments in a portfolio.

Hopefully, you’ve given some thought to which asset class you’d like to invest in. For example, stocks. Then, there are lots of different options to invest within the stock market: You could pick out individual stocks, or stock-based funds, whether mutual funds or ETFs.

With funds, it is possible to invest in categories of the stock market that are very broad, such as the entire global or US stock market, or that are narrower, such as technology stocks. Building simple portfolios of just two or three broad, diversified funds has been a popular method for investors. This is called “passive” or “set it and forget it” investing.

It is also possible to build a diversified portfolio with narrower funds or even individual stocks, but this may require substantial research and curation.

When purchasing funds, investigate whether they are actively managed or indexed. An index fund, as it sounds, mimics some index that measures the performance of the market. For example, a “total US stock market index fund” may be built against the Russell 3000 index, which measures the performance of all stocks in the US. The point is to return whatever the returns of the broader US stock market. Because there is no active manager, the management fee embedded within index funds tends to be lower than the fees on actively managed funds.

Investors opting to buy individual stocks, may want to consider businesses that they believe will produce some sort of future stream of income, either by an increase in the share value or through the dividend payment. Consider reviewing the following: a stock’s price-to-earnings ratio, industry competition, strength of balance sheet, the company research and development, and product pipeline. These factors can help investors determine the value of an investment.

New investors may want to consider buying stocks or ETFs on a platform that offers zero-cost trading, like active investing with SoFi Invest. Fees can eat away at the potential performance of an investment and act as a barrier to entry. Luckily, there are lots of low-cost options for new investors just getting started.

The last option is to use an automated investing service that buys funds for you. This may be an especially compelling option for new investors who want some help building out their first portfolio in a thoughtful, diversified, and goals-driven way. SoFi Invest also offers an automated investing platform.

Be proud of yourself for starting the journey. Invest in a strategy that makes sense for you, starting with any dollar amount.

SoFi Invest is an easy, fast, and no-fee way to get your money working harder for you.


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Top 30 States with Foreclosures in February 2021

Despite the economic fallout and job loss from the pandemic, the number of US properties with foreclosure filings in February was 11,281, down 77% from last year, according to ATTOM Data Solutions . This is likely thanks to the COVID-19 foreclosure moratorium for federally guaranteed mortgages, which has been extended to June 30, 2021. (Note: President Joe Biden’s executive order also extended the mortgage payment forbearance enrollment window to June 30, 2021.)

While foreclosures were down for the month compared to last year, they were up compared to the previous month: specifically, foreclosures in February were up 16% compared to January. Read on for the top 30 states with foreclosures in February 2021—plus top counties within those states.

States with the Highest Foreclosure Rates: 1 -10

The top 10 states are not located in any one region. That said, the South had five states in the top 10: Delaware, Florida, Louisiana, South Carolina, and Georgia. The Northeast had none.

1. Utah

With a total 1,087,112 housing units, Utah’s foreclosure rate was 1 in every 3,883 homes in February. The 31st most populated state in the country, the state saw a total 280 foreclosure filings (default notices, scheduled auctions, and bank repossessions). The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Utah, Ulintah, Beaver, Juab and Carbon.

2. Delaware

With a total 433,195 housing units, Delaware’s foreclosure rate was 1 in every 5,219 homes. Ranking 45th for population, the state had 83 foreclosure filings in February. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Kent, Sussex, and New Castle.

3. Florida

The third most populated state, Florida was also third for most foreclosures. Of its 9,448,159 homes, 1,516 went into foreclosure–making the state’s foreclosure rate 1 in every 6,232. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Highlands, Levy, Hendry, Madison and Taylor.

4. Illinois

With a total housing unit count of 5,360,315, Illinois had 846 homes go into foreclosure, resulting in the state’s foreclosure rate of 1 in every 6,336. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Power, Boundary, Fremont, Payette, and Bannock.

5. Louisiana

With the 25th largest population in the country, Louisiana’s foreclosure rate of 1 in every 7,923 homes put it in the number five spot. Of its total 2,059,918 housing units, 260 went into foreclosure. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Washington, West Baton Rouge, Caddo, Jackson, and Union.

Recommended: Tips on Buying a Foreclosed Home

6. Indiana

With a total 2,886,548 housing units in the state, Indiana’s foreclosure rate was 1 in every 7,930 homes. Ranked the 17th most populated, the state ranked 6th for foreclosures with a total 364 filings. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Vermillion, Clinton, Jasper, Fountain, and Huntington.

7. Ohio

Just like Florida, Ohio’s population ranking (7th) matches its foreclosure rate ranking. With 1 in every 8,310 households going into foreclosure, the state had 626 homes of a total 5,202,304 go into foreclosure. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Lake, Fairfield, Trumbull, Marion, and Cuyahoga.

8. South Carolina

With 1 in every 8,565 homes going into foreclosure, South Carolina was a close eighth to Ohio. Ranked 23rd for population, South Carolina has 2,286,826 housing units and saw 267 foreclosure filings. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Mccormick, Allendale, Fairfield, Darlington, and Bamberg.

9. Wyoming

Though it’s the least populated state in the country, Wyoming ranks 9th for foreclosures with 1 in every 8,651 homes. Of its 276,846 homes, 32 homes were foreclosed on. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Weston, Carbon, Uinta, Campbell, and Lincoln.

10. Georgia

Eighth for most populated state, Georgia was tenth for most foreclosures. It has 4,283,477 housing units, of which 472 went into foreclosure—making the state’s foreclosure rate 1 in every 9,075 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Berrien, Baker, Terrell, Oglethorpe, and Candler.

States with the Highest Foreclosure Rates: 11 – 20

With the next group of states, the trend of the South (North Carolina, Missouri, Oklahoma, Alabama, and Mississippi) dominating foreclosure rates continues. The Northeast appears with Maine and New Jersey and the West Coast debuts with California.

11. Maine

Ranked as the 9th least populated state, Maine saw a total 81 foreclosures in February. With a total 742,788 housing units, its foreclosure rate was 1 in every 9,170 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Oxford, Penobscot, Franklin, Waldo, and Somerset.

12. California

The most populated state is only 12th for foreclosures. Of its 14,175,976 homes, 1,427 went into foreclosure, making for a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 9,934 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Calaveras, Sutter, Trinity, Kern, and Butte.

13. North Carolina

The 9th most populated state has 4,627,089 homes, of which 462 homes went into foreclosure. That makes the state’s foreclosure rate 1 in every 10,015 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Hyde, Anson, Lenoir, Onslow, and Bertie.

14. Missouri

Of Missouri’s 2,790,397 housing units, 265 homes went into foreclosure in February. The 18th most populated state’s foreclosure rate is 1 in every 10,530 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Moniteau, Pike, Montgomery, Greene, and Adair.

Recommended: What Is a Short Sale?

15. Iowa

The 30th most populated state, Iowa is 15th for most foreclosures. Of its 1,397,087 homes, 128 were foreclosed on. That puts the state’s foreclosure rate at 1 in every 10,915 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Guthrie, Wayne, Hamilton, Davis, and Adair.

16. Oklahoma

With 154 of its 1,731,632 homes going into foreclosure, Oklahoma’s foreclosure rate is 1 in every 11,244 households. In the 28th most populated state, the counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Roger Mills, Pawnee, Pontotoc, Muskogee, and Choctaw.

17. Alabama

Ranked 24th for most populated, Alabama was 17th for foreclosures. Of its 2,255,026 homes, 198 went into foreclosure, making for a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 11,389 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Marshall, Jefferson, Coffee, Autauga, and Shelby.

18. New Jersey

New Jersey has a total of 3,616,614 housing units and 317 homes are in foreclosure. While it’s ranked 11th most populated state, its foreclosure rate of 1 in every 11,409 homes puts it in 18th place. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Salem, Atlantic, Sussex, Gloucester, and Cumberland.

19. Alaska

The third least populated state, Alaska has 314,670 homes, of which 26 went into foreclosure in February. That means its foreclosure rate is 1 in every 12,103 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Matanuska-Susitna, Anchorage, Fairbanks North Star, Juneau, and Kenai Peninsula.

20. Mississippi

In the number 20 spot for most foreclosures,Mississippi ranks as 33rd for most populated–and has 1,322,808 homes. A total 107 went into foreclosure in February, making the state’s foreclosure rate 1 in every 12,363 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Scott, Simpson, Lawrence, Bolivar, and Pike.

States with the Highest Foreclosure Rates: 21 – 30

The remaining states (21 to 30) in our rankings of the highest foreclosure rates are mainly located in the Northeast: New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania. The Midwest and Southwest were tied with two states each: Wisconsin and Nebraska and Texas and Arizona.

21. Connecticut

With housing units totaling 1,516,629, Connecticut saw 116 homes go into foreclosure. That puts the 29th most populated state in 21st place, with a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 13,074 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Windham, Litchfield, Tolland, Hartford, and Middlesex.

22. Arizona

Though ranked as the 14th most populated state, Arizona’s total 228 foreclosures (out of 3,003,286 total housing units) puts it in 22nd place for most foreclosures. The state’s foreclosure rate is 1 in every 13,172 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Apache, Mohave, Pima, Santa Cruz, and Pinal.

23. Pennsylvania

With a total 5,693,314 housing units, Pennsylvania saw 421 homes go into foreclosure. That puts the foreclosure rate for the 5th most populated state at 1 in every 13,523 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Philadelphia, Lycoming, Cambria, Luzerne, and Wyoming.

24. Maryland

The 19th most populated state ranks 24th for foreclosures. Of its 2,448,422 housing units, 170 went into foreclosure, making for a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 14,402 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Somerset, Allegany, Prince George’s County, Caroline, and Baltimore City.

25. Wisconsin

In Wisconsin, the 20th most populated state, there were 179 foreclosures (out of 2,694,527 housing units.) That puts its foreclosure rate at 1 in every 15,053 homes. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Florence, Ashland, Langlade, Vernon, and Grant.

26. Massachusetts

Ranked 15th for most populated, Massachusetts came in as 26th for foreclosures. With 2,897,259 housing units and 172 homes in foreclosure, the state’s foreclosure rate was 1 in every 16,845 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Hampden, Franklin, Berkshire, Worcester, and Barnstable.

Recommended: Home Buying 101: How Much House You Can Afford

27. Texas

The second most populated state was 27th for foreclosures. Of 10,937,026 homes, 636 went into foreclosure, making for a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 17,197 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Liberty, Atascosa, Franklin, Mills, and Mcculloch.

28. New Hampshire

New Hampshire’s total number of foreclosures was only in the double digits: 35. But in a state with the 10th smallest population (and 634,726 housing units), that number put it in the 28th spot for foreclosures, making for a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 18,135 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Cheshire, Sullivan, Merrimack, Belknap, and Strafford.

29. Nebraska

With 46 of a total 837,476 housing units in foreclosure, Nebraska’s total number is also in the double digits. But with a foreclosure rate of 1 in every 18,206 households, the 14th least populated state holds 29th for foreclosures.. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Cuming, Nemaha, Red Willow, Scotts Bluff, and Antelope.

30. Virginia

Last but not least, Virginia saw 192 homes go into foreclosure in February. That nabbed the 12th most populated state the 30th spot on our list. With 3,514,032 total housing units, the state’s foreclosure rate was 1 in every 18,302 households. The counties with the most foreclosures per housing unit were (in descending order): Emporia City, Norton City, Nottoway, King William, and Lancaster.

The Takeaway

Of the top 20 states with the highest foreclosure rates, half were in the South: Delaware, Florida, Louisiana, South Carolina, Georgia, North Carolina, Missouri, Oklahoma, Alabama, and Mississippi. Of the top 30 states, Florida had the most number of foreclosures (1,516) and Alaska had the least (26).

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